Tonight is my last night in the beautiful state of Kerala. It's been another lazy day here in the South, but good overall. I've done so much writing (an especially good form of therapy for me) here over the past 10 days, and reading as well. One of my neighbors from Coconut Lagoon, Penny, gave me two books that she had finished and I've already devoured both of them. They have a magnificent little book house here where I donated her two books and another that I had finished on the trip as well. I scoured the shelves for something to jump out at me and was impressed by the various titles left behind by previous travelers. There are books in German, French, Russian, Hindi, Malayalam (the offical language of the state of Kerala), and of course English. (I found two copies of The Da Vinci Code in English, one in French and one in German!)
After perusing the chaos that is the bookshelves, I settled upon a fictional work by Irish author Joseph O'Connor called Star of the Sea. It takes place in the winter of 1847 aboard a ship littered with fleeing refugees setting sail for New York. Murder, intertwined lives and tales of passion, hate and past regrets fill their 26 days on the Star of the Sea! I've just started it today, but find it easy to read and quite intriguing.
Marari Beach Resort is very nice and the pool villa is something I could have only dreamed about, but I prefer the property of Coconut Lagoon. Here, when I sit on my porch, I am surrounded by walls and completely secluded from any passers-by. There aren't as many areas for lounging, reading or writing--in fact, I haven't found one place I would comfortably settle down and crack open my book. The staff is friendly and attentive, almost to the point of being TOO attentive, but there's something missing that the others had at CL. There was a gaiety in their eyes and their smiles were real.
Tomorrow is a full day of travel. Up early for breakfast and pack--then drive an hour or two to the Kochi airport. I fly to back to Delhi via Bombay on Kingfisher again. This time, I have the copy of the credit card that was used to book the flight in case any agents want to get uppity again! Hopefully all will go well and I will be in Delhi for dinner. There I lose the luxury of free internet but gain the companion of television. Give and take, give and take.
Monday I tour New Delhi in the morning and Old Delhi in the afternoon and then get to go to a real live Indian family's house for dinner. :) Actually, Tapas, the person with whom I have been dealing since being in India, invited me to dinner at his house with his family. Should be an interesting evening. Then it's up early Tuesday and back to the airport for my flight to Varanasi.
I hope to be able to blog a bit over those few days, but who knows. I am trying to mind my Rupees for presents and special treats for friends (and myself). Normally the rate isn't terrible if I can manage to get to an Internet cafe. The hotel where I am staying in Delhi (and stayed two weeks ago) charges over $10 an hour for internet! Yes, 450 Rs. per hour!! Absurd! At an Internet cafe it is ~40 Rs (or less) for 1/2 hour ...which is about $1.00. (Currently, most hotels and banks are giving the exchange of 1 Rupee for $38.95.)
Off to dinner!
Showing posts with label India. Show all posts
Showing posts with label India. Show all posts
Saturday, July 14, 2007
Friday, July 13, 2007
Saying Goodbye to Coconut Lagoon
I left Coconut Lagoon this morning with my new friends waving goodbye as the boat left the reception area. They were all so sweet and wonderful and I miss seeing their faces already. "Pierre" even came to see me off and we talked about how much fun we had together and how we wish it weren't over so quickly.
Marari is a beautiful place--more trees than Coconut Lagoon--and situated on the Arabian Sea. The water is too dangerous to take a swim, but the view is quite nice. Their pool is currently closed for maintenace, so to compensate, they upgraded me to a private pool villa! It is awesome. They also have free wi-fi, so you will finally be able to see some of my pictures from the past week. ENJOY!
A view out over the pond at the poolside area
A look out across the lake.
My bathroom.
A beautiful sunset on the lake.
The awesome staff at the restaurant.
Me (looking chunky in the sari) and Thomas
Me and "Pierre."
Sunday, July 8, 2007
Dinner tonight was amazing. I know I keep talking about the food, but it is unbelievable! Let me back up for a second...
Went to yoga at 6:30 and was, once again, the only student. It's actually kind of fun being the only one. My instructor, Navil, lives about 25 km away and drives back and forth every day, regardless of the weather, on a motorcycle. Due to the condition of the roads here, it takes him about 1 hour one way. YUCK! He's a super sweet guy who is currently feeling a little under the weather with a cold. I enjoy talking with him and getting his perspective on things. He's readily shared a lot of his daily burdens (like living with the stigma of having a mother who is Christian and a father who is Hindu, not being allowed into one of the homes of a friend due to caste, poor living conditions, etc) which really makes me feel for him and respect him at the same time because he seems joyful. Honest joy comes through even in the midst of struggles, he maintains his joy. He also told me tonight that I should become a yoga instructor. :) Who knows...
DINNER! About 8:00 I went over to the restaurant and saw Molly (my waitress). One of the most incredible parts of this ayurveda package is that the restaurant is making food solely for me, based on my vata-pitta dosha. Most others visiting here have the buffet, but mine is brought out beautifully prepared and presented. Tonight I started with basil water and minestrone soup. Quite tastey. Moving on from there I had a nicely cut salad of cucumbers and carrots. (Add a glass of pineapple juice just for fun!) The main course was chapathi (yum!), vegetables cooked in some sort of yellow-ish delicious gravy, a combination of beans and banana flowers with grated coconut, and some steamed rice. Dessert was a plate of fruit including the juiciest mangos in the world (juicy juicy mangoes!), kiwi fruit, pineapple, apples, grapes, oh--and some caramel flan and a small piece of chocolate cake.
But even better than the food is the waitstaff. Molly is incredibly sweet and absolutely beautiful. Binitha is going to wrap me in a sari tomorrow after dinner and make me a true Keralite! Saravana is a guy that just makes you smile with one look. Jai speaks 5 languages and dreams of moving to France to start his own hotel. They are all absolutely incredible and their lives are hard, yet they smile every single day. I admire their resilience and joi de vivre. They are wonderful friends to have for this week, and people I know I will remember always.
Went to yoga at 6:30 and was, once again, the only student. It's actually kind of fun being the only one. My instructor, Navil, lives about 25 km away and drives back and forth every day, regardless of the weather, on a motorcycle. Due to the condition of the roads here, it takes him about 1 hour one way. YUCK! He's a super sweet guy who is currently feeling a little under the weather with a cold. I enjoy talking with him and getting his perspective on things. He's readily shared a lot of his daily burdens (like living with the stigma of having a mother who is Christian and a father who is Hindu, not being allowed into one of the homes of a friend due to caste, poor living conditions, etc) which really makes me feel for him and respect him at the same time because he seems joyful. Honest joy comes through even in the midst of struggles, he maintains his joy. He also told me tonight that I should become a yoga instructor. :) Who knows...
DINNER! About 8:00 I went over to the restaurant and saw Molly (my waitress). One of the most incredible parts of this ayurveda package is that the restaurant is making food solely for me, based on my vata-pitta dosha. Most others visiting here have the buffet, but mine is brought out beautifully prepared and presented. Tonight I started with basil water and minestrone soup. Quite tastey. Moving on from there I had a nicely cut salad of cucumbers and carrots. (Add a glass of pineapple juice just for fun!) The main course was chapathi (yum!), vegetables cooked in some sort of yellow-ish delicious gravy, a combination of beans and banana flowers with grated coconut, and some steamed rice. Dessert was a plate of fruit including the juiciest mangos in the world (juicy juicy mangoes!), kiwi fruit, pineapple, apples, grapes, oh--and some caramel flan and a small piece of chocolate cake.
But even better than the food is the waitstaff. Molly is incredibly sweet and absolutely beautiful. Binitha is going to wrap me in a sari tomorrow after dinner and make me a true Keralite! Saravana is a guy that just makes you smile with one look. Jai speaks 5 languages and dreams of moving to France to start his own hotel. They are all absolutely incredible and their lives are hard, yet they smile every single day. I admire their resilience and joi de vivre. They are wonderful friends to have for this week, and people I know I will remember always.
Friday, July 6, 2007
Coconut Lagoon
Well, I am very surprised and ecstatic to see that the luxurious Coconut Lagoon Resort has a FREE business center! This place is simply breathtaking! There's so much to do and see with everything from backwater cruises, canoe trips, bird watching, butterfly garden tours, yoga, ayurveda treatments, sunset cruises, cooking demonstrations--and I could go on and on and on! I am staying in a Mansion Villa which is a two-story room wih the 4-poster bed being up in the loft. The bathrooms are OUTSIDE! It is my own private bath which has four high walls with an open ceiling. It is so cool. Unfortunately I won't be able to post any pictures since I am not on my laptop, but believe me when I say this hotel is amazing!
For lunch I had a mango flavored soup, marsala spiced prawns, kerala fish curry and organic brown rice. This is, by far, the best meal I've had in India. (And they have Coke products!) I know I am going to be 100% spoiled by the end of these 7 days.
This afternoon I am having the first of my ayurvedic treatments--a massage. Following that bliss, I will particiate in the yoga and meditation. Then I will wander over to dinner and perhaps splurge and have a cocktail poolside this evening. But it is early to bed because yoga is at 7:00 a.m. tomorrow!!
For lunch I had a mango flavored soup, marsala spiced prawns, kerala fish curry and organic brown rice. This is, by far, the best meal I've had in India. (And they have Coke products!) I know I am going to be 100% spoiled by the end of these 7 days.
This afternoon I am having the first of my ayurvedic treatments--a massage. Following that bliss, I will particiate in the yoga and meditation. Then I will wander over to dinner and perhaps splurge and have a cocktail poolside this evening. But it is early to bed because yoga is at 7:00 a.m. tomorrow!!
Thursday, July 5, 2007
My First Time
At the advice of a friend, I have to start the story out right: SO THERE I WAS...
Sitting in the waiting room at my tiny little ayurvedic spa just waiting. Then this tiny little woman came out and asked me to follow her. Into a little room I went, no Enya in the background or soft cushy table to lie on. The room was simple with pale pink walls and a large wooden table situated near the window. Bindu (my therapist) looked at me and said "Undress!" Well, okay, I'd only known her for five minutes, but why not go ahead and strip?! And unlike anything in the U.S., she stood there and waited for me to undress--all the way.
Then I was instructed to hop up on the table and lie face up. I have to say that I was a little insecure and uncomfortable at this point. I am not one of those people who celebrates nudity (even when alone). Then she began pouring this warm oil all over me and gently massaged it in. It was incredibly relaxing and soothing and I became more at ease throughout the hour. It was a very rigorous massage, and she didn't ask how much pressure I like. I had more oil on me than Hulk Hogan at ANY wrestling match!
At the end I was put into a pressure cooker. Well, actually a steam chamber where I sat on this stool and my head was sticking out of a hole cut in a board. I felt like one of those table decorations at Halloween! At one point Bindu asked me if I was sweating--uh ya! I am a sweater and my goodness, all the toxins and impurities had to come out because when I stepped out of there, I was swimming in my own sweat. Lovely!
It was an incredible experience, something very simple and loving about it. I mean, this woman was all in my space but it felt nice and reassuring. There's something incredibly soothing about someone washing your hair and cleaning your back for you. I felt drained afterwards and needed a glass of water, or a cigarette... :)
This morning (in about an hour) I leave for my week-long ayurveda/yoga retreat. But to my knowledge, there is no internet access anywhere at this resort. It's all about getting back to nature (no tv's in the room) and leaving the world behind. But who knows, I could be pleasantly surprised! So at this point it looks like I will be disappearing from the blogging world for about a week. NAMASTE!
Sitting in the waiting room at my tiny little ayurvedic spa just waiting. Then this tiny little woman came out and asked me to follow her. Into a little room I went, no Enya in the background or soft cushy table to lie on. The room was simple with pale pink walls and a large wooden table situated near the window. Bindu (my therapist) looked at me and said "Undress!" Well, okay, I'd only known her for five minutes, but why not go ahead and strip?! And unlike anything in the U.S., she stood there and waited for me to undress--all the way.
Then I was instructed to hop up on the table and lie face up. I have to say that I was a little insecure and uncomfortable at this point. I am not one of those people who celebrates nudity (even when alone). Then she began pouring this warm oil all over me and gently massaged it in. It was incredibly relaxing and soothing and I became more at ease throughout the hour. It was a very rigorous massage, and she didn't ask how much pressure I like. I had more oil on me than Hulk Hogan at ANY wrestling match!
At the end I was put into a pressure cooker. Well, actually a steam chamber where I sat on this stool and my head was sticking out of a hole cut in a board. I felt like one of those table decorations at Halloween! At one point Bindu asked me if I was sweating--uh ya! I am a sweater and my goodness, all the toxins and impurities had to come out because when I stepped out of there, I was swimming in my own sweat. Lovely!
It was an incredible experience, something very simple and loving about it. I mean, this woman was all in my space but it felt nice and reassuring. There's something incredibly soothing about someone washing your hair and cleaning your back for you. I felt drained afterwards and needed a glass of water, or a cigarette... :)
This morning (in about an hour) I leave for my week-long ayurveda/yoga retreat. But to my knowledge, there is no internet access anywhere at this resort. It's all about getting back to nature (no tv's in the room) and leaving the world behind. But who knows, I could be pleasantly surprised! So at this point it looks like I will be disappearing from the blogging world for about a week. NAMASTE!
Kochi
Sorry it's been awhile since the last post, but last night was kind of crazy and I wasn't sure if there was internet access in the room. SO...a brief recap of yesterday's events:
You can go over to G's blog to catch a brief synopsis of my wonderful experience at the domestic airport in Bombay. That was fun! Actually it wasn't too bad, but I knew when G asked to speak to the travel rep. that this poor guy was in for it! G told me that in order to get things done (or your point across) one must yell and pull rank. So G did just that. :) THANKS!
The flight was great--a little bumpy, but great. Kingfisher Airlines really does spoil its customers. Water as soon as you board, a full meal (which they called a snack), complimentary headsets, individual tv's, more water, tea, coffee, and pretty much anything else you request. This flight was less crowded than my first domestic flight, and that was nice. And I think there was some sort of conspiracy because the only other white girl on the flight sat next to me! :-)
Last night I checked into the hotel and I was escorted to the Kochi Cultural Center where I was going to see a Kathakali Dance. Men dress up in elaborate costumes and re-enact scenes from various epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata (sp?). I arrived about one hour early and was able to see one man in the process of putting on his makeup. It's really cool and really an art form. As I was sitting there (alone) watching this man put make up on better than I EVER could, a woman came upstairs and sat down next to me. We started talking and turns out she is an ayurvedic doctor. Since I was the only person that was there to see the show last night, she asked me if I could wait until Thursday night when more people were scheduled to be there. She also offered (since I was so inconvenienced) to give me a 2-hour ayurvedic treatment Thursday before the show!! HELL YES!
This morning I was awakened at 5:00 a.m. by this chanting over a loudspeaker from a nearby temple. This happened right when I got here last night and thought maybe it was a once-a-day kind of thing. Guess I was wrong. It's very drab chanting, not the kind of thing that would encourage me to get up and go to the temple! So, I laid around for a bit and then had breakfast. My driver and guide came at 9:00 and we set out to explore the old city of Kochi.
Our first stop was the St. Francis Church, now belonging to the Church of South India. It was once Anglican, but after Independence, the church split from the Church of England. It was simple but nice. It's also the site of Vasco de Gama's tomb. His remains have actually been transported to Lisbon, but the tomb is still there.
Next was Jew Town and the city's only surviving synagogue. My guide told me that there are only about 30-40 Jews left in the entire state of Kerala! The synagogue again was simple but nice. (No pictures allowed!) Mantacherry Palace was the palace of the kings of the state and have very intricate and charming (but not very sophisticated) murals on various walls. The entire first floor is a Hindu temple (no non-Hindus allowed).
I also saw the chinese fishing nets that are situated on the Arabian Sea. These enormous nets are attached to long tree trunk-like things that are lifted up, submerging the nets for 3-4 minutes. Then they lower the tree-trunk things and the nets come up full of fish and prawns and other Arabian Sea paraphenalia. Quite interesting.
There isn't too much to see in Kochi, but it was a nice morning. (Pictures to come later tonight after the Kathakali dance.) I am a little tired due to lack of caffeine, running around town, being further hasseled by shopkeepers (one guy told me I was going to Hell because I wouldn't come in his store), and waking up at 5:00 a.m.! I am hopeful that my ayurvedic massage will rejeuvenate me!
You can go over to G's blog to catch a brief synopsis of my wonderful experience at the domestic airport in Bombay. That was fun! Actually it wasn't too bad, but I knew when G asked to speak to the travel rep. that this poor guy was in for it! G told me that in order to get things done (or your point across) one must yell and pull rank. So G did just that. :) THANKS!
The flight was great--a little bumpy, but great. Kingfisher Airlines really does spoil its customers. Water as soon as you board, a full meal (which they called a snack), complimentary headsets, individual tv's, more water, tea, coffee, and pretty much anything else you request. This flight was less crowded than my first domestic flight, and that was nice. And I think there was some sort of conspiracy because the only other white girl on the flight sat next to me! :-)
Last night I checked into the hotel and I was escorted to the Kochi Cultural Center where I was going to see a Kathakali Dance. Men dress up in elaborate costumes and re-enact scenes from various epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata (sp?). I arrived about one hour early and was able to see one man in the process of putting on his makeup. It's really cool and really an art form. As I was sitting there (alone) watching this man put make up on better than I EVER could, a woman came upstairs and sat down next to me. We started talking and turns out she is an ayurvedic doctor. Since I was the only person that was there to see the show last night, she asked me if I could wait until Thursday night when more people were scheduled to be there. She also offered (since I was so inconvenienced) to give me a 2-hour ayurvedic treatment Thursday before the show!! HELL YES!
This morning I was awakened at 5:00 a.m. by this chanting over a loudspeaker from a nearby temple. This happened right when I got here last night and thought maybe it was a once-a-day kind of thing. Guess I was wrong. It's very drab chanting, not the kind of thing that would encourage me to get up and go to the temple! So, I laid around for a bit and then had breakfast. My driver and guide came at 9:00 and we set out to explore the old city of Kochi.
Our first stop was the St. Francis Church, now belonging to the Church of South India. It was once Anglican, but after Independence, the church split from the Church of England. It was simple but nice. It's also the site of Vasco de Gama's tomb. His remains have actually been transported to Lisbon, but the tomb is still there.
Next was Jew Town and the city's only surviving synagogue. My guide told me that there are only about 30-40 Jews left in the entire state of Kerala! The synagogue again was simple but nice. (No pictures allowed!) Mantacherry Palace was the palace of the kings of the state and have very intricate and charming (but not very sophisticated) murals on various walls. The entire first floor is a Hindu temple (no non-Hindus allowed).
I also saw the chinese fishing nets that are situated on the Arabian Sea. These enormous nets are attached to long tree trunk-like things that are lifted up, submerging the nets for 3-4 minutes. Then they lower the tree-trunk things and the nets come up full of fish and prawns and other Arabian Sea paraphenalia. Quite interesting.
There isn't too much to see in Kochi, but it was a nice morning. (Pictures to come later tonight after the Kathakali dance.) I am a little tired due to lack of caffeine, running around town, being further hasseled by shopkeepers (one guy told me I was going to Hell because I wouldn't come in his store), and waking up at 5:00 a.m.! I am hopeful that my ayurvedic massage will rejeuvenate me!
Monday, July 2, 2007
Pictures
Gandhi's Home in Bombay
Gandhi's room and spinning wheel
Jain Temple
Me and My New Friends in the Hanging Gardens
Lord Krishna's Flower
Victoria Terminal (train station)
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